MALI!  Yay!  Jane and I are off on another adventure!  And, yay, we are meeting up with Kath and Jill in the south of Mali, in the very beautiful Dogon country for a few days of hiking, then heading up to the 7th Annual Festival au Désert Tuareg music festival out in the middle of the Sahara, out past Timbuctou.  Check out the site:  www.festival-au-desert.org .  Kath and I have been wanting to do this for a very long time, so you can imagine how crazy it is to think it's finally happening.  Mali, we've been learning, is a very difficult and trying place for travel, so it will be no walk in the park BUT we are going for it, and we are all seasoned travelers.  I cannot tell you how excited I am to think I'll be seeing those two chicas in just about 12 days.  I miss everyone still so much, and I just miss the comfort of being with people who know me so well.

Which reminds me, Dann and Darryl, I got your package, hee hee!  I will be having an occasion soon to wear the feather boa, and have the Hedwig glitter in my bag to fete with on New Years!  And, wow, all the godiva chocolate and reeses cups, and the toblerone that lasted about 5 seconds, and the peach tea.  Thanks you guys. 

Aunt Karen, just got your package too, with gobs of m&ms again, which I am sharing, and the cocoa packs which I am not.

David, thank you for your continued regular weird packages and postcards and yes!  I have written you!  Just finished a letter the other day while stuck in a broken down taxi in the middle of nowhere.  Keep an eye out ...

Other things in village, quickly, and then will finish this epic letter.  Finally saw a successful live birth, a very happy occasion and I got to hold her first cuz she was shivering cold and mom was still being cared for.  Discovered a few weeks later that they named her Laura.  She's the catechist's granddaughter by the way.  He really does like me, despite my devil worship, and was one of the health agents trained.

Let's see.. Oh yeah, witnessed a 50-something grandma breastfeeding her granddaughter.  The woman hadn't had a kid of her own in years; I was perplexed.  I could see the baby was suckling but I just couldn't believe it -- I made her show me, and voila she squirted milk on me.  The baby was severely underweight -- but very happy! --, as her own mama had stopped nursing months before (and went back to middle school), so we counseled her to start supplementing the baby's diet.  Maybe the old woman was still able to nurse, but obviously her milk lacked nutrition.

We repaired one of our water pumps with the money we'd been collecting since February, so I consider our collection management changes somewhat of a success.  Only somewhat, because funds were still "borrowed" out to people and not replaced, so we had much less money in the bank than we should have.  But, they seemed to finally understand the importance of good money management, and were appreciative.  They also finally elected a new, female, treasurer who is evidently so far great about making sure daily collections are signed off on, and I had a new lockbox made that has only a slit large enough to put money in (but not take out), and the key resides with my trusted collaborator.  We will continue to deposit money into the bank, and see about getting more sources of water funded and dug.  We'll see.  I may seek funding from the Embassy, if the village can get its act together.  We still have no chief and no leadership, and it causes constant problems.

Finally got invited to a voodoo ceremony, just the other day, where three kids were asking the ancestors for protection and to clear the path to success in their life.  The first kid's ceremony didn't work -- the rooster died on it's side and not on its back), cuz the chosen practitioner (my trusted collaborator) forgot to drink of the gin, and the ancestors wanted 600 more francs added to the pot as well.  So, another rooster had to be sacrificed:  after the kid was rubbed from head to toe by the live chicken, after he spit in its mouth 3 times, after the requisite libations were drunk and the 600 francs added, they slit its neck and poured the blood on the kids feet and at the makeshift alter, and then tossed the chicken onto the ground and we all stood fixed to our spots waiting to see if this time the ancestors would be satisfied and the ceremony successful.  Sure enough, the rooster writhed around and finally flopped on its back with feet up in the air, the signal that the ancestors were pleased and the kid was now protected.  The next two were performed by 2 young kids, as that is who the seekers of protection had chosen, and they were successful on the first try.  We drank of the gin and the sodabe (local moonshine) after each ceremony, so I was a tad tipsy by the end of it all.

Okay, of course there is lots more that has happened but I suspect you'll all have to read this in sections as it is. Until next time, I would always love to hear from you and get the scoop on your lives!